From the time you get off the bus from Prague at Spicak station and walk across the small bridge and enter the old town area through the Budwiser gate you start sighing and smiling, while thinking where have I come?, is this a little town from a story book but only much more real? If this thought continues for the whole day and then the next day and your lungs are a bit too happy with the deep sighs then you are clearly in Cesky Krumlov in Czech Republic.

There are many beautiful European small towns that are quaint, charming and pastel fairylands I am sure, but there is no denying the charm that embraces your heart while walking the winding lanes and alleys of Cesky Krumlov. As I walked into the old Bohemian town from the Budwiser gate (Budějovická Gate), the pastel shaded buildings that lined the streets, the tiny shop entrances and the alleys that I peeked into, I kept hearing myself say ‘wait for me I will be back to see each one of you as soon as I drop my belongings at the hotel’. The urgency to just inhale in this little town as a whole was palpable even though I knew I had more than enough time to do savour it slowly.

Cesky Krumlov, the name itself describes much about the town. Cesky is simple Bohemian and Krumlov means ‘winding meadows’ , the river Vltava winds around the town, two meanders of the river that closely follow each other in a S shape creating the two circular isthmus which contains all the history and stories of hundreds even thousands. Walk around really swiftly and you would have been through most of it’s lanes in the old town area within an hour or so. My first walk around the city might have been like that , as my eyes wanted to greedily see every corner and soon. But I came back to see the same streets and lanes in all times of the day and evening. The golden hour in the evening and the early mornings are just stunning, where the pastel colours of the buildings glow, the cobble streets shine and the windows refract beautiful yellow light. 

 

The town square also called Namesti Svornosti could be the smallest town square that I have seen but so intimate. It has the town information center on one side. Beautiful pastels facades of other buildings or townhouses on all sides of the quadrangle. It has the 16th century town hall which is a renaissance building that sits on the corner of the town square Svornosti and Marian Plague Column in the middle. You will always be within a ten minute walk from this town square no matter where you are in the old town area!

Apart from it’s lanes and houses, there is a disproportionately huge castle, the Cesky Krumlov Castle, compared to the size of the town. It has a castle tower, which is also in pastel shades by the way, and the view from it and the castle of Cesky Krumlov from above is like seeing a fairy tale unfold in front of your eyes against the hills around. For such a tiny town, the castle area is the largest in central Europe with a seven hectare of castle garden. It is a pleasant walk around here. Many buildings in the town and the castle itself shows renaissance architecture, so don’t forget to spot all the false bricks , fake window and fake balconies!

There are many restaurants and stores sprouted up in this area, all set up in the old houses and accommodating the architecture that was, as this town is recognized as an UNESCO heritage site of course. But that only makes these cafes , stores and eateries more enticing . I had some amazing savoury crepes at MLS crepes. A lovely bohemian meal at Krcma U Dwau Maryi (Tavern of the two Maries). Just remembering that meal with buckwheat, millet and barley, so well done that I crave for it. Yes, you do get a vegetarian meal here too along with all the rest. Dinner at Laibon by the Vltava and of course trdelnik (Kurtoskalacs/Chimney cake) from time to time while wandering around.

Another highlight for me in this town was the Museum Fotoatelier Seidel. A very inspiring museum and house of Josef Seidel who was a photographer during late 19th century and early 20th century. His collection of work of portraiture and landscapes around Cesky Krumlov from that time period in monotones are something I could stare at for hours on end . The beautiful house itself, ever so slightly modified to be used for processing the film and drying the pictures back then in different rooms and not to forget the adorable studio on the second floor.  How I would kill to have such a studio set up for myself which makes use of natural light so well. It almost felt like it was used till yesterday, it is maintained with that much care. I lost myself here in this two storey simple house for more than two hours. I had the whole house to myself! I was surely traveling back in time with the audio guide telling me stories of the house. 

If all this was not enough, the hotel I stayed in was as pretty as the town itself in a tiny alley by the castle. Just to prove to me how pretty and in sync it was with the town , whenever I looked out of my room window I could see travelers taking pictures in front of it. Ubytovani on Zamecke Schody , simply means Accommodation on Zamecke Schody. To miss the crowds in cesky krumlov, skip weekends and to miss the day trip crowds, just stay over and have the whole town to yourself in the evening and morning light!

Just like that my time  in this beautiful little town had come to an end. I enjoyed my every minute spent here wandering its lanes and being amazed and amused with every corner. If you are not sure that you can fall in love many times over in one lifetime, come to Cesky Krumlov. This little town is surely a love affair. 

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