When I sat down to write about Essaouira, my favourite town in Morocco, As usual I just wanted to write one of those rabbit hole kind of experience through my eyes into this wonderland. Let’s be honest, how could I tell you to go and stay only here or eat only there, it’s not like i went to all it’s hotel accommodations or ate in all it’s restaurants or saw every thing that there was to see in the 3 days I was there.
Tunnel vision – Essaouira framed, fort, medina, seaside, seagull and all
What I can tell you for sure is that, just after I entered the medina of Essaouira through Bab(gate) Marrakech, I was taken in. I loved it’s alleyways as we went along to search for our airbnb accommodation and that feeling didn’t leave me until I was sitting on a bus onwards to Marrakech after 3 days. Before I go any further, whenever you read the word Essaouira, just imagine that I am saying ‘Sswira’ or ‘Esswera’ . Each medina (old walled town) in Morocco has it’s own characteristics, charm and complexity to getting you pretty lost. But like all walled fort towns that are by the ocean, this one also just draws you in and envelopes you with its beauty.
Does it make you wonder? wonder, who lives on the room just above the street? – Alleys of Essaouira
Alley with a door at the end! The alley with our airbnb, so beautiful, that it had to be painted. And the airbnb itself when you enter a door to the right.
If you spend the whole time you are there just wandering around it’s medina with no particular agenda, that would just be the right thing to do. The beige and pastel shaded alleyways hide a beautiful riad or charming little store or a home. No matter what, there is always this excitement to see what is along the alley or just around the corner. As you walk on, you see plenty of beautiful doors, most of them blue and as many doors that you see, you will get to meet that many cats or maybe just more. If you take a count of creatures in Morocco, cats might outnumber humans, or so it seemed!
💙 Just one of those. Essaouira medina
Judgy Moroccon felines
Essaouira blues!
A large part of the Medina sells all the moroccon handicrafts, you will find intricate ceramic, argan oil products, wood work, weaves, an alley full of carpet and rugs and of course lot of soveniers. The store keepers in Essaouria don’t haggle or bother you as much, they resonate with the relaxed vibe of the town and let you window shop. Which is not the case in the other popular moroccon medinas. So as you walk along these alleyways of pretty doors and archways with cats for company , cross the colourful stores and as the sun starts to enter its golden hours, you will reach the fort wall or the ramparts near Bab El Marsa. Sit near the fort wall and enjoy looking at the sea as the sun begins to set over the Skala du port. Get yourself a cup of the mint tea at the square and watch the people around enjoy their evening. If you fancy a rooftop panaromic view, just pick one of the many restaurants like Taros. Almost every terrace in that vicinity will give you a great view of the sun sinking into the Atlantic ocean.
Sunset view from Taros and Skala du Port
Markets in Medina
An evening looking at Skala du port, Essaouira
You could just repeat all this the next day but only this time when the sun has decided to start coming down head towards Bab Skala, enjoy walking in the lane between the fort walls and soak in the colour of the stores against the calming browns of the fort. Walk on the city wall ramparts with the canons all lined up. As you watch the huge impressive white waves hit the rocks in the evening sun, you can sit and just stare away into the ocean or instead feel like Danerys for a few minutes and ponder on the misfortunes of her House while discussing it with Ser Jorah in Astopor. (Yes Game of Thrones was also shot in Essaouira) .
Rampart and the canons at sunset, Essaouira
So at the crux of it all Essaouira is heaven during sunset. But on the day I was leaving the city, I realised it is not so bad at all around sunrise too! (I can hear judgement from all the early risers already!) Considering I am not really a sunrise person, but later winter sunrises (8:30am) in Morocco helped my case greatly. The view of Essaouira from Skala du port of the walled medina, the ocean and the port in the soft morning light, with seagulls squawking by your side and a bit of mist around the ocean port makes that 50dh you paid to climb up to Skala du port worth it.
Morning light and Essaouira
Panaromic view from Skala du port rampart
That reminds me, if cats rule Morocco then Seagulls rule Essaouira. All along the fort walls and out into the ocean, flying , walking, sun bathing, feeding anything you can think of, you can spot a seagull for it. A constant company once you can spot even an inch of the ocean, you will never feel alone by the seaside there. When you see them soar above you over the city and the ocean reflecting the golden light, you wish you could trade bodies with them even just for a few minutes, to see all of it at one. The bird’s eye view. (Do you see what else I did there? yes, warging)
Essaouira and the seagull life.
The port side of the town is usually buzzing with life and activity. Mornings are way too busy, with the mist around the port rising and blue boats coming in with their haul and fishermen and others starting to sell their catch or loading them to take them on further. There is so much going on here, even during the other times of the day. With seagulls sticking their beak into everything that is happening. Never a dull moment by the port.
Port side, Essaouira
One thing Essaouira is notoriously famous for, is the windy seaside – From the ramparts, to the fort walls, from the beach to the port side. Windy and chilly, one of the reasons why you do not really have many seaside resorts. Maybe that is a blessing in disguise, which has kept the old charm and authenticity of the place going. Though for my travel, Essaouira was kinder. I was told by the local women at the shops that the weather has been really nice the past few days, by that they mean it’s been less windy. Even with that, I thought the sunset view from the rooftops was filled with a lot of strong breeze that my curly hair strongly opposed!
During the day when you want to grab a bite and you are looking for cafes, do try Mandala cafe, Yoo for yummy vegetarian only, Cafe Triskala. Taros for a drink and a rooftop view of sunset. For dinner and some great live music, Le Sirocco, Il Mare Bar. Maybe an afternoon snack or local desserts at Patisserie Driss as it proudly says it stands there from 1928 , Glacier chez said or Boulangerie Pâtisserie Patachou. One of the few medina areas of morocco where you can enjoy a drink with your dinner easily.
Mandala cafe and steaming Mint tea
Strolling around the fort walled medina in Essaouira
By now if you haven’t figured it out, Essaouira is a photographers heaven. From simplistic and minimal frames with just the ocean and the skies, to ones that are enthusiastically photobombed by beautiful cats and seagulls against the beige , blues and whites of the city, the busy life of the ports and the happy blue boats. The way morning light enamors everything around the city to the views at sunset of the people enjoying them and of the city reflecting the golden light.
I will leave you with a quote I found while reading on Essaouira myself on Along dusty road.
“Have you stayed longer than a week? No? That’s good, you might get home. If you stay in Essaouira for longer than a week, you’ll never leave!”
— Ahmed, the captain turned orange juice seller
